Hickory Curved Bar
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 Once the veneer peices are covered with the contact cement, we carefully cover the bar. |  As soon as the veneer touches the bar it bonds and does not move. A roller is used to press the veneer and roll out any air pockets. |  After several unsuccessful attempts at bending the hickory molding around the curve, we decided to rip the molding into two peices. This will make it easier to bend. |  We cut out a slightly smaller radius than the bar from a peice of stock hickory to use for a clamp while gluing the molding back together. | ||
 The molding was custom made from solid hickory. Solid hickory does not like to bend. We had to rip the molding in half to be able to bend it. |  We made the radius smaller than the radius on the bar. The molding peices were glued and clamped in the solid hickory jig. |  Wait at least a couple hours for the glue to dry because there will be tension on the molding and it will want to break loose if the glue is not completely set. |  After the glue dried and the molding was sanded, we installed it around the radius areas of the bar. | ||
 The curved molding is fit to the straight molding around the corner. |  the hickory molding is applied around the edge of the frames so that it appears to be framed with solid hickory |  Remember the radius peices of molding were cut in two and glued back together while clamped in the jig. They now match the profile of the straight peices at the corners. |  Once we got past the curved area, the rest of the molding went on very easily. | ||
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